Chavand, Jeevdhan and Naneghat : A Mesmerizing Trio Trek

The family get-together of Trek for Health group was well attended by members and we had declared a few monsoon treks. Jeevdhan had been on our list for quite some time. Hence the first trek of the season had to be Jeevdhan along with Chavand.

As our admin declared the trek schedule, confirmations started coming in. Since there were twelve confirmations, a 17 seater vehicle was booked for the journey. However it was different this time. As we gathered our bags and headed to board the vehicle we realized that we were only 8 instead of 12. There were a few last minute cancellations. Slightly disheartened we travelled on the Senapati Bapat Road. Sachin and Ram duo was already recalculating the contribution to be paid to our treasurer Chandan. The IT whiz-kid along with accomplished biz- man came up with a brilliant idea of cancelling the vehicle and taking our own cars. With much deliberation the vehicle owner agreed to our request with a penalty to be paid. We quickly rearranged ourselves in our own cars and the journey began.

After tea and snacks at Hotel Ashok we headed to the Fort Chavand.  As we passed Rajgurunagar nature started changing to green and cloudy.  We reached Chavand Village at about 12.15 pm. The villagers told us, we might need about half an hour to reach the top. Name Chavand is derived from Godess Chamundaa. The fort looked very small from the foot. There are newly constructed stairs leading to the top. On seeing the stairs we were slightly

disappointed. We thought it is as good as climbing Parvati. As we started ascending, the rain god bestowed his affection on us. We wore our rain jackets and started climbing again. As we completed 80% of the ascend, the stairs became more and more narrow and difficult. There was a railing after which we suddenly were welcomed by a gigantic door way with lord Ganesh engraved on it.

The fort has witnessed several changes of hands in the past. There are very few remains including remains of a Shiva Temple. They remind of a past glory that the fort has lived through.

According to the literature the fort is housed with a Chamunda Devi Temple. We went in search of the temple, however could not reach it since the entire path was full of mud. As we were walking back on the muddy path Tanaya, our youngest member had a royal fall. She was immediately declared a skiing queen. It was already past lunch time. Ram declared that he will not move until he relinquishes his hungry stomach. All of us decided to honor his demand since we did not want another bhookbali in  draught affected Maharashtra.

L to R Ashwini, Sachin, Ram, Chandan, Tanaya, Anirudh, Anant, Ashok

We were now on our way to Naneghat, Our hault for the night. As we proceeded on the road decorated with green fields on both the sides we were looking for our destination for the night stay. Mr. Subhash Adhari is a local guide who provides accommodation at reasonable rates. It was raining now. The clouds were on their way to meet the mother earth.

We found Mr. Adhare’s place soon. As we went inside we were almost drench. However none of us were in a mood to change in to dry clothes since any way we would be drench once again. After a round of hot tea, we headed to Nane ghat and Nanyachaa Angath. When you

reach the highest peak of nanne ghat, there is a small hillock which resembles the thumb and hence it is call Nanyaachaa Angatha ( Thumb of Naneghaat). The nature was behaving at its best now. The clouds started disappearing and the curtain of thick fog slowly disappeared in front of us. The nature was ready to show a new performance to us now.  As the clouds disappeared Jeevdhan appeared in front of us. The very sight of Jeevdhan along with the Vandarling was mesmerizing. We sipped our tea while dreaming about sitting in the lap of Jeevdhan.

Next day morning greeted us with a clear weather. We quickly got ready and headed to Jeevdhan with our guide. The first 15 minutes were mere walking hence each one of us took out our camera and clicked snaps. Text part of the climb was inside the forest which we loved since it was fresh and green. After a climb of about 30 minutes we reached a rock patch. It looked challenging. Rohidas fixed the rope and Sachin was in front of everybody to guide us. Without much difficulty we reached the top and entered the massive entrance of Jeevdhan. The entrance has the Sun and Moon carved on  the doorway.

Rohidas guided us to the stone structure still in good condition which is believed to be a palace. Everything was green and moist. After visiting a few more remains we found a descent place and opened our breakfast packets. Everyone was rejuvenated now.

We now wanted to head to Wandarlingi. Wandarlingi is a peak adjuscent to Jeevdhan. Infact it is a part of Jeevdhan. This peak looks like a Monkey in standing position and hence is named as wanderlingi.  Anant aka Antu led us to Wandarlingi. We were amazed at its sight. Nature unfolds surprises for you at each step. However we should be mature enough to absorb and appreciate these surprises. Ashok discovered a tiny cave inside Wandarlingi and took a close look inside. It was amazing to see such a gigantic natural tower with a hole in it. 

After a visit to Vandarlingi we headed back to the foot of Jeevdhan. After another 45 Minutes we were at the foot of Jeevdhan.

Monsoon treks are amazing. No trekker will ever miss an opportunity to see the newly acquired green fashion of the mountains,  Sparkling white waterfalls, freshly bathed fields and cheerful rivers. And be grateful to the Nature God for bestowing so much love on us, protecting us from the evil and entertaining us with the silent music of the nature. The music that is not to be listened to but the music that automatically seeps inside us slowly and silently. 

Summer Night in Moonlight

While returning from our trek to Ratangad  we had discussed and finalized our next trek to Rajgad.  But of course evening-night halt trek.  As the message appeared on our What’s Ap Group the confirmations started pouring in. Apart from the usual member we had a few new members too.  Looks like any trek declared in April goes over booked. This time we had decided to take our own cars hence we had no restriction on number. 

As  the departure day started approaching, the cancellations and confirmations started confusing me. However our Chandan and Anirudh  with their cool accost sorted out everything and we all were set to go. As usual the message about pick up points for various people  was drafted about  without any ambiguity. 

With a normal delay of about 20 minutes we started towards Rajgad. After a drive of about 1.5 hour we reached Gunjawane Village. Mr. Purohit of Aranya Nivas was very helpful in providing us Pohe and Tea quickly. As we finished our tea, it was already 7.10 pm. We packed our bags and headed towards Rajgad.

It was not dark yet. We were able to see the fort standing tall in front of us. There were a few kids and a few first timers too.  The kids and a few of the group members went ahead under the able leadership of Sharvari Bramhe our courageous trekker. All the others followed slowly.

 

Rajgad - Needle hole

It was my third time to this elegant fort. I was greeted by the famous yellow flower bed of sahydri when I had visited this fort for the first time.  This is the place where I had discovered my passion for trekking. The second time I felt as if the fort had been waiting for my visit. And the third time I was waiting to reach the top and meet my buddy. 

As we started climbing, the sun had gone home and the stars had started taking their positions in the sky. The king of the night,  “Moon” had not arrived yet. We were in dilemma as to whether the twinkling stars were brighter or the torch in our hands. Finally the stars won over our torch and we continued to climb. 

First Sight of Moon

As we were mid-way through, Kalyani exclaimed,  ‘Oh!  turn behind and look at that’. The Moon was rising from the far end. We were mesmerized by its first sight and were  not able to move away from it. After observing its marvelous  beauty for much time we headed back on our track. All of us were so engrossed in sipping the sweet moonlight that we did not want to talk anymore. I was now trying to breath the moonlight and listen to the music of silence. The stars were brighter than ever and were leading us to our destination.

Meanwhile we had realized that Sachin and Mr. Bramhe were left behind, Since Sachin is an expert trekker, we were confident that he will find  his own way. And  so he did. After waiting for him for a few minutes, both of them joined us.

We had now reached the first railing which assured us that we were left with only 10% of  climb.   At the same moment Shrarvari called out for us. She had already reached the top along with other members. We told her to look for the place to sleep.

As we were approaching the top it was becoming more and more challenging. After a few minutes we entered ‘Chor Darwaja’. This is not the official entry for the fort. The main entrance is from Pali Village. But the back door entry is more popular due to its proximity to Pune.

Sharvari had already reserved a good space in the Padmavati temple. We settled down for a while. As the introductions were happening, dinner arrived. Mr. Purohit had packed simple yet delicious food.

Moon our companion for the night

Since everyone was drained after the climb, we decided to wake up at 4.30 am and visit Balekilla. Without visiting Balekilla and Suvela Machi a visit to Rajgad can never be complete.

Some alarm woke us up. It took more time than what was estimated to get ready since it was a large group. However all of us were fresh now. We headed to Balekilla. It took us about 25 minutes to climb. After a photo session we headed towards the corner to look for other forts. Another solo trekker, Kanak, showed us the forts that could be sighted. It was astonishing to spot Sinhagad, Raigad and Lingaana from the top.

At Balekilla :

 After the photography enthusiasts had finished exhibiting their skills we headed back down. As we were mid way through we were guided to a short rout to Suvelaa machi. It took us another 20 minutes to reach the Machi. But the more challenging job was to climb up and sit on the needle hole all young and old climbed it. It was of course worth the climb. Cool breeze was welcoming and refreshing. The view was enthralling  to the core. I realized that Drumil was left behind along with some group members. In the heart of heart I was feeling that others should return to climb the Needle hole. And here they were. My wish was fulfilled. As all climbed with much hue and cry, Needle hole absorbed us silently and patiently.  

Needle Hole

As we descended from needle hole we realized that it was time for us to have breakfast and pack up. The delicious Upama was waiting for us at the temple. After a quick bite we started descending. The bags felt light and the feet felt heavy. Sahyadris are tough yet tender and grueling  yet gorgeous. The sun was blazing now. We needed to hurry up. We sped up and  reached down in about 1.5 hours.

The trek had ended but our journey continued. The mind was racing to absorb each and every moment of the trek and the heart was filled with emotions about the fort. We promised ourselves to visit this one fort year after year. It in turn promised us to show a variety of demure each day and each time.

Ratangad : The Nature’s Treasure

After missing my trek to ‘Torna’ last month I was very  keen on some unexplored fort. Finally after long deliberations we finalized on ‘Ratangad’.  After cancellations and reconfirmations we are a team of 11 ready to conquer ‘Ratangad’. 

It  is  8.00 am in the morning. Mr. Bramhe ‘s message pops up. We have started. I and Chandan take the final  look at our back pack and join Hemant and Reges  to board the bus on Law College Road. Anirudh and Vishal also joins us immediately.  After the cheerful greetings, Chandan declares that we will halt at Chakan for breakfast.  After a round of Misal and Solkadhi we head to Narayan Gaon.   As we turn towards Bhandardara from the national highway, bus suddenly starts making some weird noise.  The driver inspects vehicle and calls his mechanic. It appears that we have to visit some garage for trouble shooting. As we turn back towards Narayan Gaon,  we notice a Garaj of Force Motors. After a thorough examination and scrutiny by our expert mechanical engineers from the team 11  it is concluded that the part controlling steering wheel is out of order and needs to be replaced. This  part is so very rare that it needs to be called for from  Pune which is going to take minimum three hours. We are grounded and we have nothing to do. It is already 11.45 am. After a long wait of about 3 hours, in the company of heat and a Garage Movie, we finally are told that the bus is now in pink of its heath. 

Without wasting any time we head to Bhandardara. The route is beautiful however we are too impatient to notice anything now. We alter our plan and decide to head to the MTDC Resort at Bhandardara where we have booked a dormitory. After a very  tiny tea break we reach Village Shendi at Bhandardara. As usual MTDC is at the exotic location filled with the most non-cooperative people. As I complete the formalities, our cricket fans are finding out if there is a television in the dormitory.  And to my astonishment there is a television set indeed. Now I know what is in store for us. All these cricket maniacs are going to watch the T-20 Match between Indian and Pakistan.  It is the question of exhibiting patriotism hence we cannot object.

After settling down we look for a decent place to eat. We find a simple place where they serve Maharashtrian food. After a sumptuous meal we get back to our dormitory. The match is in full swing and all the cricket patriots are watching with amusement. I sink into my bed and fall asleep. I am woken up in the middle of the  night. Chandan tells me we have won and offers me sweets. I am able to visualize the  upcoming drama since am married to him for 19 years now. I silently eat the pedha and without a word fall back to sleep. After a sound sleep in the middle of celebrations, we all wake up at 4.00 am. We quickly get ready and board the bus to begin our journey to Ratanwadi. This is the village at the base of Ratangad. This village has a long and very interesting history. A beautiful  Shiv Temple in Hemadpanthi Style   stands tall with the untold history of over 1400 years.  This tiny village is very welcoming and as we drink our tea at 6.00 am we are able to see the gigantic Ratangad stairing at us. We also are able to find the guide for our trek to Ratangad. 

When we had made our initial enquiry we were told that this trek can take anything between 3 hours to 6 hours. We are very skeptical now since we have no clue how long it will take. Our guide assures us that we will take not more than 3 hours. With a sigh of relief,  we  pack our bags to head to Ratangad.

Our first segment is just a walk along the fields. River Pravara is flowing besides our route. As we walk for about 10 Minutes we reach a newly built canal. This reservoir supplies water to Ratanwadi. We cross this canal and enter the forest now. The climb has begun through the thick jungle.  We now cannot resist clicking photographs. All of us are very curious about the trees around. Our guide tries to show some of the green treasures of the Jungle. As we walk in the midst of greenery and fresh air we are able to see the needle   hole (nedhe) of Ratangad which will be our final destination. This needle   hole is amazing yet challenging. 

On the ladder

After a climb of about one hour we are ensured by our guide that we are half way through. Pravaraa has disappeared. We are now able to see the open sky and are also able to see the peak of Ratangad. As we move forward we now reach a ladder which is very similar to Kalsubai. Everybody crosses three such ladders. I along with Sharvari Rege prefer to skip one ladder and march through the old stone carved steps. They are much easier. Shardul who is only 10 is slightly hesitant however with his father’s encouragement, manages to climb at the top. After the ladders we see a majestic entrance where Ganesh Idol is carved. Though it is rudimentary it is quite welcoming. As we enter inside, we hear some voices of a group of trekkers. We now know that we have finished out upward journey in record time of just 2.5 hours. We march toward the direction of the sound. There is a cave in which a group from Nasik has stayed over-night. They tell us that it is an amazing experience to stay here on the top of the world. We  are tempted to plan another trek already.

Team 11 at Needle Hole

Our guide tells us that we will be taking a round of the entire fort now. He starts giving us information of this fort. Ratangad is surrounded by many peaks such as Kalsubai, Ajoba, Katrabai, Bhairavgad, Ghanchakkar etc. After taking a view of all the locations, we are trying to figure out how many of us will be able to visit how many of them. But I believe it does not matter how many are we able to climb. What matters is what we take away as a learning from each of these. I am contended in just taking a sight at all of them.

As we tour around this gigantic fort, we have lots of surprises in store. Built during  Yadav dynesty, this fort is excellently protected by natural as well as artificial creations. There is Chor-darwaja and a small under-ground water reserve which serves cool water at any time in a year. This water reservoir is accompanied by a small compartment where a person can take rest. 

After drinking refreshing water we proceed to the needle hole ( nedhe). This place has a cool air and a natural shade. We settle down at this place and open our breakfast packets. After our well deserved breakfast, it is time again for an elaborate photo session. We cheerfully take the photographs and Vishal guides us to the top of the needle hole. The climb is slippery.  As we head to the top, we are spellbound by the breath taking view. We feel as if we are on the top of the world. All the peaks are inviting us to visit them.. I want o capture this moment in my heart.  Our guide tells us that we could either go back on the same route or we could take another route to descend. We unanimously choose the new route. 

The Descend

We come out of the needle hole and turn to our left which takes us to the main entrance of the fort. There are very wide yet difficult stairs on which we descend. As we go along, we are met by a group of youngsters; one of them throws a plastic bottle. Chandan and Ashok request them politely to refrain from throwing plastic. The leader joins them in agreement and tells his friend genuinely that Mr. Modi is trying to clean our nation hence it is our duty not to litter it. I now know the power of Swatch Bharat. Hats off to you Mr. Modi.

We now have to traverse a small rock patch which reminds us of Dhak Chaa Bahiri. After a rock patch we now are walking on a cliff which exhibits excellent view from both the sides. We can see rocky mountain peaks, and deep valley by our side. In our amusement we take small and careful steps forward. Some parts of the descend are slippery and challenging. We look for a shade to rest for a while. We sip  water and move forward. It being a different route is full of many surprises. Our guide takes us through the deep forests and introduces us to the delicacies of forest. The descend now feels unending, however since I am engrossed in continuous chatter with Sharvari Bramhe it does not feel so.  

After a while we are able to see the  reservoir of water. The sight of it is so tempting that all of us remove our shoes and dip our feet in the water. It is so relaxing and incomparable to the best foot spa in the world. 

Refreshed with energy we now head to Ratanwadi. It is 12 noon and hence we order lunch at the same place where we had our morning tea. We now head to the temple which still stands proudly with the history of Yadav Dynasty. 

After a curious look at the temple we come back towards our bus. This time Mr. Bramhe does the honors of giving away solar lamps. We finish our lunch and say good bye to this fort. A last sight of needle hole is amazing. We feel fortunate to have been able to climb it.

Now I understand why Shivaji Maharaj loved this fort. His greatness as a leader and a strategist is enhanced in my mind. 

This fort has a lot to offer to the trekkers. One can experience the nostalgia of all the previous treks en-route Ratangad. You feel as if you have traveled on this route earlier though  this is your first time here. The enormous beautiful mountains stand in front of you. It is an open invitation to climb them, sit on their lap and forget about the life outside them.   

Journey from Pune to Bhandardara   in a vehicle	5  Hours	Best Season	September to April
Journey from Bhandardara   to Ratanwadi in a vehicle	1 hour	Water  Available on the Top	Yes
Ratanwadi to Top	2.5 to 3 hours	Contact person for Guide and Food	Mr. Nathu Jhade : 8308037394 / : 9325325463
Overnight stay in the cave	15-20  people	Important Tip	Local Guide is a must for first timers