Summer Night in Moonlight

While returning from our trek to Ratangad  we had discussed and finalized our next trek to Rajgad.  But of course evening-night halt trek.  As the message appeared on our What’s Ap Group the confirmations started pouring in. Apart from the usual member we had a few new members too.  Looks like any trek declared in April goes over booked. This time we had decided to take our own cars hence we had no restriction on number. 

As  the departure day started approaching, the cancellations and confirmations started confusing me. However our Chandan and Anirudh  with their cool accost sorted out everything and we all were set to go. As usual the message about pick up points for various people  was drafted about  without any ambiguity. 

With a normal delay of about 20 minutes we started towards Rajgad. After a drive of about 1.5 hour we reached Gunjawane Village. Mr. Purohit of Aranya Nivas was very helpful in providing us Pohe and Tea quickly. As we finished our tea, it was already 7.10 pm. We packed our bags and headed towards Rajgad.

It was not dark yet. We were able to see the fort standing tall in front of us. There were a few kids and a few first timers too.  The kids and a few of the group members went ahead under the able leadership of Sharvari Bramhe our courageous trekker. All the others followed slowly.

 

Rajgad - Needle hole

It was my third time to this elegant fort. I was greeted by the famous yellow flower bed of sahydri when I had visited this fort for the first time.  This is the place where I had discovered my passion for trekking. The second time I felt as if the fort had been waiting for my visit. And the third time I was waiting to reach the top and meet my buddy. 

As we started climbing, the sun had gone home and the stars had started taking their positions in the sky. The king of the night,  “Moon” had not arrived yet. We were in dilemma as to whether the twinkling stars were brighter or the torch in our hands. Finally the stars won over our torch and we continued to climb. 

First Sight of Moon

As we were mid-way through, Kalyani exclaimed,  ‘Oh!  turn behind and look at that’. The Moon was rising from the far end. We were mesmerized by its first sight and were  not able to move away from it. After observing its marvelous  beauty for much time we headed back on our track. All of us were so engrossed in sipping the sweet moonlight that we did not want to talk anymore. I was now trying to breath the moonlight and listen to the music of silence. The stars were brighter than ever and were leading us to our destination.

Meanwhile we had realized that Sachin and Mr. Bramhe were left behind, Since Sachin is an expert trekker, we were confident that he will find  his own way. And  so he did. After waiting for him for a few minutes, both of them joined us.

We had now reached the first railing which assured us that we were left with only 10% of  climb.   At the same moment Shrarvari called out for us. She had already reached the top along with other members. We told her to look for the place to sleep.

As we were approaching the top it was becoming more and more challenging. After a few minutes we entered ‘Chor Darwaja’. This is not the official entry for the fort. The main entrance is from Pali Village. But the back door entry is more popular due to its proximity to Pune.

Sharvari had already reserved a good space in the Padmavati temple. We settled down for a while. As the introductions were happening, dinner arrived. Mr. Purohit had packed simple yet delicious food.

Moon our companion for the night

Since everyone was drained after the climb, we decided to wake up at 4.30 am and visit Balekilla. Without visiting Balekilla and Suvela Machi a visit to Rajgad can never be complete.

Some alarm woke us up. It took more time than what was estimated to get ready since it was a large group. However all of us were fresh now. We headed to Balekilla. It took us about 25 minutes to climb. After a photo session we headed towards the corner to look for other forts. Another solo trekker, Kanak, showed us the forts that could be sighted. It was astonishing to spot Sinhagad, Raigad and Lingaana from the top.

At Balekilla :

 After the photography enthusiasts had finished exhibiting their skills we headed back down. As we were mid way through we were guided to a short rout to Suvelaa machi. It took us another 20 minutes to reach the Machi. But the more challenging job was to climb up and sit on the needle hole all young and old climbed it. It was of course worth the climb. Cool breeze was welcoming and refreshing. The view was enthralling  to the core. I realized that Drumil was left behind along with some group members. In the heart of heart I was feeling that others should return to climb the Needle hole. And here they were. My wish was fulfilled. As all climbed with much hue and cry, Needle hole absorbed us silently and patiently.  

Needle Hole

As we descended from needle hole we realized that it was time for us to have breakfast and pack up. The delicious Upama was waiting for us at the temple. After a quick bite we started descending. The bags felt light and the feet felt heavy. Sahyadris are tough yet tender and grueling  yet gorgeous. The sun was blazing now. We needed to hurry up. We sped up and  reached down in about 1.5 hours.

The trek had ended but our journey continued. The mind was racing to absorb each and every moment of the trek and the heart was filled with emotions about the fort. We promised ourselves to visit this one fort year after year. It in turn promised us to show a variety of demure each day and each time.

Ratangad : The Nature’s Treasure

After missing my trek to ‘Torna’ last month I was very  keen on some unexplored fort. Finally after long deliberations we finalized on ‘Ratangad’.  After cancellations and reconfirmations we are a team of 11 ready to conquer ‘Ratangad’. 

It  is  8.00 am in the morning. Mr. Bramhe ‘s message pops up. We have started. I and Chandan take the final  look at our back pack and join Hemant and Reges  to board the bus on Law College Road. Anirudh and Vishal also joins us immediately.  After the cheerful greetings, Chandan declares that we will halt at Chakan for breakfast.  After a round of Misal and Solkadhi we head to Narayan Gaon.   As we turn towards Bhandardara from the national highway, bus suddenly starts making some weird noise.  The driver inspects vehicle and calls his mechanic. It appears that we have to visit some garage for trouble shooting. As we turn back towards Narayan Gaon,  we notice a Garaj of Force Motors. After a thorough examination and scrutiny by our expert mechanical engineers from the team 11  it is concluded that the part controlling steering wheel is out of order and needs to be replaced. This  part is so very rare that it needs to be called for from  Pune which is going to take minimum three hours. We are grounded and we have nothing to do. It is already 11.45 am. After a long wait of about 3 hours, in the company of heat and a Garage Movie, we finally are told that the bus is now in pink of its heath. 

Without wasting any time we head to Bhandardara. The route is beautiful however we are too impatient to notice anything now. We alter our plan and decide to head to the MTDC Resort at Bhandardara where we have booked a dormitory. After a very  tiny tea break we reach Village Shendi at Bhandardara. As usual MTDC is at the exotic location filled with the most non-cooperative people. As I complete the formalities, our cricket fans are finding out if there is a television in the dormitory.  And to my astonishment there is a television set indeed. Now I know what is in store for us. All these cricket maniacs are going to watch the T-20 Match between Indian and Pakistan.  It is the question of exhibiting patriotism hence we cannot object.

After settling down we look for a decent place to eat. We find a simple place where they serve Maharashtrian food. After a sumptuous meal we get back to our dormitory. The match is in full swing and all the cricket patriots are watching with amusement. I sink into my bed and fall asleep. I am woken up in the middle of the  night. Chandan tells me we have won and offers me sweets. I am able to visualize the  upcoming drama since am married to him for 19 years now. I silently eat the pedha and without a word fall back to sleep. After a sound sleep in the middle of celebrations, we all wake up at 4.00 am. We quickly get ready and board the bus to begin our journey to Ratanwadi. This is the village at the base of Ratangad. This village has a long and very interesting history. A beautiful  Shiv Temple in Hemadpanthi Style   stands tall with the untold history of over 1400 years.  This tiny village is very welcoming and as we drink our tea at 6.00 am we are able to see the gigantic Ratangad stairing at us. We also are able to find the guide for our trek to Ratangad. 

When we had made our initial enquiry we were told that this trek can take anything between 3 hours to 6 hours. We are very skeptical now since we have no clue how long it will take. Our guide assures us that we will take not more than 3 hours. With a sigh of relief,  we  pack our bags to head to Ratangad.

Our first segment is just a walk along the fields. River Pravara is flowing besides our route. As we walk for about 10 Minutes we reach a newly built canal. This reservoir supplies water to Ratanwadi. We cross this canal and enter the forest now. The climb has begun through the thick jungle.  We now cannot resist clicking photographs. All of us are very curious about the trees around. Our guide tries to show some of the green treasures of the Jungle. As we walk in the midst of greenery and fresh air we are able to see the needle   hole (nedhe) of Ratangad which will be our final destination. This needle   hole is amazing yet challenging. 

On the ladder

After a climb of about one hour we are ensured by our guide that we are half way through. Pravaraa has disappeared. We are now able to see the open sky and are also able to see the peak of Ratangad. As we move forward we now reach a ladder which is very similar to Kalsubai. Everybody crosses three such ladders. I along with Sharvari Rege prefer to skip one ladder and march through the old stone carved steps. They are much easier. Shardul who is only 10 is slightly hesitant however with his father’s encouragement, manages to climb at the top. After the ladders we see a majestic entrance where Ganesh Idol is carved. Though it is rudimentary it is quite welcoming. As we enter inside, we hear some voices of a group of trekkers. We now know that we have finished out upward journey in record time of just 2.5 hours. We march toward the direction of the sound. There is a cave in which a group from Nasik has stayed over-night. They tell us that it is an amazing experience to stay here on the top of the world. We  are tempted to plan another trek already.

Team 11 at Needle Hole

Our guide tells us that we will be taking a round of the entire fort now. He starts giving us information of this fort. Ratangad is surrounded by many peaks such as Kalsubai, Ajoba, Katrabai, Bhairavgad, Ghanchakkar etc. After taking a view of all the locations, we are trying to figure out how many of us will be able to visit how many of them. But I believe it does not matter how many are we able to climb. What matters is what we take away as a learning from each of these. I am contended in just taking a sight at all of them.

As we tour around this gigantic fort, we have lots of surprises in store. Built during  Yadav dynesty, this fort is excellently protected by natural as well as artificial creations. There is Chor-darwaja and a small under-ground water reserve which serves cool water at any time in a year. This water reservoir is accompanied by a small compartment where a person can take rest. 

After drinking refreshing water we proceed to the needle hole ( nedhe). This place has a cool air and a natural shade. We settle down at this place and open our breakfast packets. After our well deserved breakfast, it is time again for an elaborate photo session. We cheerfully take the photographs and Vishal guides us to the top of the needle hole. The climb is slippery.  As we head to the top, we are spellbound by the breath taking view. We feel as if we are on the top of the world. All the peaks are inviting us to visit them.. I want o capture this moment in my heart.  Our guide tells us that we could either go back on the same route or we could take another route to descend. We unanimously choose the new route. 

The Descend

We come out of the needle hole and turn to our left which takes us to the main entrance of the fort. There are very wide yet difficult stairs on which we descend. As we go along, we are met by a group of youngsters; one of them throws a plastic bottle. Chandan and Ashok request them politely to refrain from throwing plastic. The leader joins them in agreement and tells his friend genuinely that Mr. Modi is trying to clean our nation hence it is our duty not to litter it. I now know the power of Swatch Bharat. Hats off to you Mr. Modi.

We now have to traverse a small rock patch which reminds us of Dhak Chaa Bahiri. After a rock patch we now are walking on a cliff which exhibits excellent view from both the sides. We can see rocky mountain peaks, and deep valley by our side. In our amusement we take small and careful steps forward. Some parts of the descend are slippery and challenging. We look for a shade to rest for a while. We sip  water and move forward. It being a different route is full of many surprises. Our guide takes us through the deep forests and introduces us to the delicacies of forest. The descend now feels unending, however since I am engrossed in continuous chatter with Sharvari Bramhe it does not feel so.  

After a while we are able to see the  reservoir of water. The sight of it is so tempting that all of us remove our shoes and dip our feet in the water. It is so relaxing and incomparable to the best foot spa in the world. 

Refreshed with energy we now head to Ratanwadi. It is 12 noon and hence we order lunch at the same place where we had our morning tea. We now head to the temple which still stands proudly with the history of Yadav Dynasty. 

After a curious look at the temple we come back towards our bus. This time Mr. Bramhe does the honors of giving away solar lamps. We finish our lunch and say good bye to this fort. A last sight of needle hole is amazing. We feel fortunate to have been able to climb it.

Now I understand why Shivaji Maharaj loved this fort. His greatness as a leader and a strategist is enhanced in my mind. 

This fort has a lot to offer to the trekkers. One can experience the nostalgia of all the previous treks en-route Ratangad. You feel as if you have traveled on this route earlier though  this is your first time here. The enormous beautiful mountains stand in front of you. It is an open invitation to climb them, sit on their lap and forget about the life outside them.   

Journey from Pune to Bhandardara   in a vehicle	5  Hours	Best Season	September to April
Journey from Bhandardara   to Ratanwadi in a vehicle	1 hour	Water  Available on the Top	Yes
Ratanwadi to Top	2.5 to 3 hours	Contact person for Guide and Food	Mr. Nathu Jhade : 8308037394 / : 9325325463
Overnight stay in the cave	15-20  people	Important Tip	Local Guide is a must for first timers

Dhaak Chaa Bahiri : Thrill Redefined

Oh? Are you  going to Dhaak Chaa Bahiri? It surely is an amazing trek. But beware it is one of the riskiest in Sahyadri. Bhide Kaka warned me on the previous morning on our routine cycle ride.  I cannot afford to ignore Bhide Kaka (Age 78) who has conquered Sahydris and Himalayas, innumerable times.  His high energy level  blends very well with his cool nature.

On hearing from him I go back and  check on the you tube videos.  With much excitement I show it to one of my colleagues in office and tell her jokingly that if I do not come to office on Monday you may assume I reached the ultimate destination. She is scared to the core and glances at me for several seconds and asks coldly if it is absolutely necessary to visit this deadly place? I now realize what I have done and tell her, it must be a fake video and I must go and unearth the reality. After assuring her that I will be safe, I escape from the seen.

10 of us assemble at  6.00 am and get into the mini bus. It is a very short journey of around 40 kms. We eat our usual breakfast of Pohe and head to Kundeshwar.

Jungle Trail

As we reach the village, we debate if the vehicle can travel on the rudimentary road leading to the foot of Dhaak. After much deliberation and after being reminded by Anirudh, our group admin, that we are trekkers and not tourists to escape walking, we get down to our feet.  In about 15 minutes,  we reach the Kundeshwar temple. I like this place a lot. It is one of the most naturally beautiful locations near Pune.  After a brief meeting with Lord Shanker we head to start our climb. We cross a small stream and enter the thick forest. This forest will lead us to Dhaak. After walking and climbing for about 1 hour we take a break for a sip of water. I am very happy with the way it is going. I assure myself that everything that I heard is untrue and I am going to make it to the top easily. We are now faced with a huge rock . Sachin has completed this trek several times and Mr. Bramhe and Anirudh  are doing it for the second time.  Sachin tells us that we are now in the last segment and will need to line up and proceed.

The Traverse

Chandan stops talking. Ram also holds back his expert comments. Ninad is quite as usual. And Nitin our new member has not spoken a word since beginning.

As Sachin leads our way we enter an aisle protected by rocks on both the sides. I try to look ahead and suddenly realize what I saw on You Tube was only a small portion. There is much more excitement ahead of me.  I need to climb gigantic rocks and cross a very big rock before I see Dhaak Chaa Bahiri. The men do it with much easy. Sharvari is a brave girl and climbs with ease. Benedicte is behind me.  Sachin guides me through and I cross this difficult patch. I am happy I am alive. As we proceed we find a small rock to stand and take pictures. The camera rolls and we smile not for the picture but for this beautiful gift of life.

As I see ahead of me lays a huge hill.  I can see that we now need to traverse a rock patch of about 70 degrees  with the support of a cable fixed on the side. The rock stands high on one side and if you happen to look down you can witness a deep valley.  One step missed can directly throw you into the valley.  All of us hold on to the cable and take tiny steps to go over the rock patch.  This patch seems unending. We are now at the foot of small hill where Bahiri resides. There is a small temple inside the caves and a water pond too. As we look up some villagers shout from the top. They warn us that ladies are prohibited to climb up on the top. We pretend not to listen. Sachin asks them if the god will face any problem if we climb up. The villager seems to like the humar and says no it is not god but the ladies will be in trouble.  Sachin and Mr. Bramhe tell him that our ladies do not mind and will not enter the temple. We are determined to climb up to the top.  We did not come all the way to leave this trek unfinished. As we look up, we can see small carved steps inside the rock.  Sachin instructs us to hold on to the cable and find our way through steps. As I climb up I see Mr. Bramhe waiting patiently to guide us through the last climb. I feel relived and start taking pictures and videos of other climbers. We still have to finish our last climb. We remove our shoes now and look up to another challenging climb.  There is a trunckof a dried tree  hanging from the top. The branches are chopped off to be used for resting the feet.  We climb this make shift ladder bare foot and are finally on the top of Dhaak Chaa Bahiri.

Benedicte and Sharvari.Brave Girls, Sachin standing strong

We find a cool shade to rest. There is a water cistern filled with the water seeping  from rock. We splash water on our tired faces and open our bags to fill stomachs.

It is 10.30 am now. Sun is bathing the valley. A few minutes ago this valley which looked lifeless and scary to us has now turned into a green carpet full of life.  As we sit and relax we look at Bahiri and see pleasure in his eyes. The God does not discriminate life.  Life does.   

  We are now gearing up to begin our descend. Sachinwarns us to be careful. He is an expert climber and we cannot think of doing such treks without his guidance.  I volunteer to begin my journey before others. Sachin explains to me with a fast track demo on how to climb down the trunk. I nod my head and know deep  inside that I have not followed a word. Somehow I make my way down. After wearing shoes again I take a deep breath to climb down the stairs carved inside the rock.  I am more confident now.  As I reach down I see some small children who compete with each other fearlessly. I realize fear enters us only in the company of knowledge. Ignorance is a bliss at times.

Top of the world looking down into the valley

We head down the hill and complete our descend effortlessly. We are back where we started. As we climb into the bus and settle down, each one of us is dumb struck. We are speechless and are recounting our experience.  As a ritual, we start sharing our experience about the climb. All of us agree that if we had known it is so scary we would not have come at all. But we are happy we did it. All of us agree to come back next year again. 

L to R Anirudh, Chandan, Ram, Ashwini, Mr. Bramhe, Nitin, Ninand, Benedicte and Sharvari  (Sachin is behind the lenses)

Dhaak Chaa Bahiri challenges your mental ability more than the  physical ability.  You certainly come out as an accomplished person. I wow to myself to come again next year. To experience the thrill, to get excited and to reassure to myself that I am alive.

Journey from Pune to Kundeshwar  in a vehicle	1  Hours	Best Season	September to February
Kundeshwar  to the top	1.5 Hrs.	Water  Available on the Top	Yes
Overnight stay in the cave	15-20  people